Johnny and Kasie Curiel have been on a warpath. For most restaurateurs, opening one fine dining restaurant a year would be enough. But not for these two.
The debut of Milpero, a corn-focused 18-course chef’s counter in the heart of RiNo, would surely satiate even the most ambitious chefs from here to Jalisco. But its immediate success has seemed only to increase the duo’s ambitions.
So with the July heat in full effect, they opened Tequilería Alteño in the space that had been housing Mar Bella Wine Bar, a Spanish tapas spot their team ran for the better part of this year. While the bones are largely the same, the party has moved to the street, with clinking wine glasses shifting in favor of boisterous toasts of mezcal.
Tequilería joins SHEEP as the latest addition to the Clayton Hotel and Members Club‘s list of summer attractions. Both are part of a growing number of restaurants that are changing the face of Cherry Creek dining and culture.
The current iteration is ostensibly a pop-up, though Johny Curiel hasn’t specified an end date for the new concept. “We’re giving ourselves some long summer months to figure out what we’re gonna do with the space,” he said.
Regardless of what comes next, Tequilería is perfect for its time and place. Plates like the tostada de marlin, with smoked tuna, chipotle regaudo and salsa Yahualica, are as summery as it gets. The aguachile rojo, with scallop, citrus piquin broth and chive oil, is no less festive, but it serves as a nice reminder that no matter how fun the food is, Johnny Curiel will still approach it with the same integrity that earned Alma Fonda Fina a Michelin star in the first place.
Flautas, tacos and quesadillas fill out the menu of decidedly unstuffy drinking food. “Food is not the focus. It’s all about the alcohol. It’s all about the party,” said Curiel. “I wanted to bring the party of cantinas and the vibe of Mexico to Cherry Creek this summer.”
Even with the sturdy tequila list and ample cocktail offerings, the food still finds itself being the major draw. The corn margarita, with Vago Eltote, Nixta, corn puree and lemon juice, and the tomatillo paloma, with Pasote Blanco, tomatillo broth, grapefruit and Tajin, are both reason enough to visit. But the ostiones, baked oysters with bluefin otoro, roasted jalapeno and lime, just can’t help but steal the show.
When the restaurant group could have chosen to lean towards more serious cuisine, it’s nice to see that they’ve decided to go playful.
Tequilería Alteño is located on the first floor of the Clayton Hotel and Members Club at 233 Clayton Street, Denver. It is open
Reservations can be made here.
Photos courtesy of Shawn Campbell.
