It’s already been quite a few years since the farm-to-table craze pretty much drained the phrase of its meaning. What started as a sincere desire to put ethical supply chains back in the limelight quickly gave way to overuse. Every restaurant, whether they had farms they worked closely with or not, suddenly had a chicken named Colin on hand, and a guru-like Jason Sudeikis not far off. Some places took the task seriously, but a lot of the so-called farm-to-table joints didn’t really commit to putting ingredients first.
Since Alex Seidel first opened it in 2014, Mercantile has always put its money where its mouth is. But that wasn’t Seidel’s first forray into the world of slow food. He’d been keeping things local for almost a decade prior. In 2007, he debuted Fruition, where he served food that supported nearby farms and sustainable purveyors. He also got a chunk of his from his bounty own farm that he operated under the same name. Fruition closed early last year, and the farm followed suit. And even after Seidel sold the majority stake of Mercantile to Sage Hospitality Group in 2024, the restaurant continues to operate under the same ethos from its bright dining room in Union Station.
Just over a month ago, Mercantile launched its new brunch under the direction of Executive Chef Alex Grenier. The first seasonal menu, which is set to change incrementally, features classic staples like breakfast bowls and benedicts. Everything is presented with a sincere commitment to letting local ingredients shine.
This is the first time Mercantile has done brunch since COVID, and the menu has shifted slightly in scope. Grunier’s influence is noticeable. His experience at Lure + Hill and Nobu in Palo Alto shows up in decisions like adding caramelized fennel to the breakfast bowl, and topping the chicken and waffles with gochujang butter.
Even with some ornate flourishes, the offerings are still decidedly straightforward. “I always think simplicity wins out,” said Grunier.
The stone fruit and ginger parfait is a good place to start. Seasoned yogurt, crystallized ginger granola and stone fruit preserve are topped by fresh blueberries. The classic breakfast comes with either country ham, Brunson bacon or smoked salmon. Meat from the Brunson Meat Co. appears elsewhere on the menu. Coming back for dinner for one of the dry-aged New York strips is considered wise.
While Grunier certainly favors direct, powerful flavors, not all of the menu relies on strict simplicity. The fried chicken banh mi with chicken liver spread, kimchi aioli, daikon, carrot, jalapeno, mint and cilantro is bold, crisp and unctuous. The cast-iron farmhouse hash, with pork pastrami, two eggs any style, smashed potatoes, summer pepper relish and Swiss cheese, is anything but basic. The absolutely essential malted lemon pancakes veer from the ordinary by way of malt whip and maple.
Mercantile’s decision to bring its brunch back to downtown is proof that nature is healing.
Mercantile is located in Union Station at 1701 Wynkoop Street #155, Denver. It is open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. – 9 p.m., Saturday from 10:30 a.m. – 9 p.m., and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Photos courtesy of Mercantile.
