In the cutthroat world of fine dining, where the spotlight often centers on magnificent or self-obsessed individuals, it’s rare that kitchens are helmed by co-executive chefs. But for husband and wife Kelly Jeun and Eduardo Valle Lobo, owners of the recently-opened Casa Juani, that’s exactly how they spent their time at Michelin Star-toting Boulder institution Frasca.
Jeun is from Queens and Valle Lobo is from Spain. Juani, Vallo Lobos’ mom, still lives in Madrid, and at 98, is still by all accounts, going strong. She’s the inspiration for the couple’s new Spanish joint on West Pearl Street in Boulder, and is a good namesake for a place that is all about newschool vivacity, oldschool dishes, fresh preparation and enduring practices, all of it tied together by a commitment to world-class hospitality.
The place bills itself as a marisquería, and serves curated charcuterie, tapas, sumptuous dry-aged meat dishes, as well as an array of hot and cold seafood plates.
When entering Casa Juani, it doesn’t take long to see that the place is a labor of love. Both owners are boots on the ground, each flirting with both the line and the reservation-only dining room. Folks can come in and sit at the bar or one of several high-tops without planning ahead, but tables should be taken care of in advance. Both sections are boisterous. You can often find Valle Lobo gabbing with guests while dexterously whirling off tableside charcuterie.
The restaurant is decidedly animated, because of, or perhaps even in spite of, both owners’ long history working in serious kitchens. Well ahead of their time at Frasca, each chef cut their teeth at numerous houses of global renown. Having devoted themselves to the craft early on, both Jeun and Valle Lobo are also culinary school grads.
Their talent runs deep. Jeun’s first cooking job was at Del Posto, where she worked under Lidia Bastianach, a chef Jeun had admired since childhood, where she says she would sit entranced by the Eataly partner’s cooking shows. “I think I just wanted to learn from the best,” said Jeun. Valle Lobo’s career has seen stints at Horcher, a historic fine-dining restaurant that has been in Madrid since 1943, as well as London’s Zuma and Daniel Boulud’s eponymous New York haunt Daniel.
The two met in 2009, after Valle Lobo started working at Del Posto. Since then, the two have been inseparable in both life and career. In 2013, they were the opening chefs of Orsone Ristorante, a ten-table restaurant in Friuli owned by Lidia’s son Joe Bastianich. It was there they met Bobby Stuckey.
Valle Lobo says the interior was outfitted with many large tables in hopes of attracting families. “We’re not trying to do fine dining, we’re trying to do fun dining,” he grinned. But the familial atmosphere isn’t just for the customers, the team executes in rare unison. Connections run deep. The General Manager Daniel Dirth, who is also responsible for the beverage program, has known Jeun since their Eleven Madison Park days nearly 15 years ago. “A lot of the standards that we use come from that time,” said Jeun.
Keeping with the fun, Jeun and Valle Lobo chucked white table cloths in favor of vivid European plates and silverware, but the food is just as elegant as one might expect from Frasca alum. The menu is ambitious, and while it fits on just a few pages, it’s dense enough that patrons can still discover new dishes after many return visits. Casa Juani is warm and inviting, the type of place that makes fast regulars who know they can enjoy many fresh feasts. “In Boulder you have people who like good food and good wine. People care where things come from,” said Jeun. “La dolce vita,” she grinned.
While it’s worth exploring the whole list, there’s no shame in anchoring each dinner with a few go-tos. Start with some gildas, a classic Basque pintxto that comes in three varieties. The erizo — sea urchin custard, ajo blanco and green apple — is also a must. The Carrilleras de Cerdo, pork cheek with piquillo and san simon, is at least mildly depraved, and easily worth it. Jamon Iberico sliced fresh from the roving ham cart is a sign that in some pockets of the world, civilization is still on the incline.
Feasting properly at Casa Juani is a little spendy, but it’s worth the price of admission. Students can cement it among the town’s other important landmarks, and like The Flatirons, the Dushanbe Teahouse and the Mount Sanitas, should be sure to take their folks there during parents weekend.
Even with a star-studded career, Valle Lobo still credits his mom for more than a bit of his fundamental cooking knowledge. “Eduardo has been in the kitchen for 25 years and he’ll still say ‘this is how my mom did it,’” mused Jeun. It’s unlikely many of the restaurant’s visitors will get to know Juani, Valle Lobo says she will not likely be flying to Boulder any time soon. Even so, her presence is felt in the flavors, and the kindness the team seems to have built into the walls.
Casa Juani is located at 901 Pearl Street, Boulder. It is open Wednesday – Sunday from 5 – 10 p.m.
All photos by Casey Wilson.
