Semiprecious looks ordinary enough. But it usually doesn’t take folks more than a drink or two before they start wondering how they managed to get a strawberry Vesper, a green apple swizzle or a pineapple Infante without once hearing the clack of a Boston shaker. Order a Porcini Vieux Carré and poof! Voila! Cheers!
Magic is just science that we don’t understand yet. For bar owner Mike Capoferri, Semiprecious is an opportunity to make the sublime attainable. He’s largely done away with the smokescreens, and keeps a roster of advanced bar tech largely where guests can see it. Precise thermal engineering keeps all the liquids at the perfect temperature, and ice-free dilution and batching means cocktails arrive cold despite the distinct lack of intricately-cut cubes or garnishes. House-carbonated canned cocktails streamline the process even further. There’s a lot of legwork ahead of time, but the near-instantaneous appearance of any of the spot’s upper-crust libations still wows like some rabbit-from-the-hat trickery.
“We make things quick and efficient so we can spend more time talking to folks about their day,” said General Manager Nik Sparks.
Capoferri and Sparks build the menu together, often rotating drinks out just two or three at a time. Even though the beverages are distinct to Denver, the format is largely the same as at Capoferri’s other bars in Los Angeles, Thunderbolt and Night on Earth. “Mike had the idea for most of the drinks long before this bar became a thing,” said Sparks.
While the drinks can be ornate, the menu doesn’t beat around the bush. The team institutes a simple naming convention, listing just the primary flavor and style of drink. “If we call something David Bowie’s Last Caress, that just makes it more opaque,” said Sparks. When you order a sour cream and onion martini, you know roughly what you’re going to get.
Semiprecious does a good job of appealing to cocktail snobs without alienating more casual drinkers. The canned cocktails are particularly approachable. The Bramble Soda, with calvados, lactose and a summer berry cordial manages to turn apple brandy into a proper porch pounder. The Mango Spritz, with Aperitivo Rosato, mango, grappa and Rosé, is even easier drinking. It has all the pep of a classic spritz, but is made robust by the condensed sweetness of dried fruit. Even the Tomato Highball, with Oaxacan rum and clarified tomato juice, is inviting for people who might usually stick to a daiquiri.
The team will also batch custom cocktails for larger events, complete with cans designed by Wunder Werkz, that occupies the office upstairs from the bar.
Semiprecious has turned out to be a real gift to Denver cocktail culture. Without cutting any corners, it focuses on convenience for all the right reasons. “We’ve got something for everyone. Especially if you’re weird,” laughed Sparks.
Semiprecious is located at 2839 West 44th Avenue, Suite 101, Denver. It is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. – 12 a.m., Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. – 1 a.m., and Sunday from 2 – 10 p.m.
It is closed on Monday.
Photos courtesy of Jeff Fierberg.
