Shuang (Sherry) Crossland has a keen sense for the exquisite. Walk into any of the eateries she and her teams at SYC Concepts and One Concept Restaurant Group have opened over the past several years, and you’ll know exactly how much she has an eye for design. Her restaurants, including Miya Moon, The Bronze Empire and Sushi by SYC, all follow a similar blueprint. Pristine interiors, branded napkins, fashionable to-go bags and club-ready playlists run throughout. Everything she touches is chic and polished.
Blossom by SYC, which opened this July in LoHi, is Crossland’s most personal expression yet. The space is all pink marble and lush velvet. Jade tiles line the walls and ornate ceramics are hidden in nearly every nook. The high-end Chinese dishes, like the wagyu chow fun and the typhoon shelter soft-shell crab, recall the banquet elegance of Chinatown in New York.
Despite its penchant for finery, Blossom by SYC is grand without being garish. Even over-the-top stuff, like the rose gold finishes and the custom tableware with gold accents, is tasteful. Besides, as Michelle Pfeiffer so famously said, “nothing exceeds like excess.”
It’s no wonder that the clientele leans female. Everything about the spot stands in opposition to Denver’s macho, TV-on-every-wall, steak frites with a side of “the game” thing.
That’s not to say that Crossland’s new joint isn’t tough. The feminine opulence is roughly two parts Dolly Parton for every one part Martin Scorsese. It’s probably the only restaurant you’ll find sequined dresses and red bottoms so close to the ballpark. Blossom by SYC seems to be a place more for martini-drinking baddies than beer-drinking buddies.
The kitchen is run by chef Adam Chan, who cut his teeth at the TATE Dining Room in Hong Kong and Ever Restaurant in Chicago. His fine-dining chops are evident in plates like the black truffle shao mai and the bone marrow clay pot rice, which turns an unassuming combo of short rib, fried shallots, green onions and house Chinese barbecue sauce into one of the best items on the menu. Don’t leave without getting the tofu cheesecake, a light-as-a-feather rendition that’s finished tableside with an infinity pool of salted caramel cream.
“Blossom by SYC is my way of sharing the food, traditions and memories I grew up with while presenting them through a modern perspective,” said Crossland. “I’ve always loved LoHi. It has that energy and buzz that makes it a great destination for a night out. I’m so excited to bring more upscale Chinese food to the Highlands.”
If Blossom by SYC is reminiscent of slicker metropolises like Miami and Las Vegas, it still has a place in Denver. Even if that place is one Crossland is largely pioneering herself.
As good as the food is, Blossom by SYC’s real success is that it’s clearly the kind of hangout that makes women feel safe to boss out.
Blossom by SYC is located at 1691 Central Street, Denver. It is open Sunday through Thursday from 4 – 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 4 – 11 p.m.
Photos courtesy of Gerardo Ramirez.
