Aguanile is a great place to have a drink. It sits within stumbling distance of the Alameda Station light rail stop. Its rum selection is one of the best in the city.
But the new Puerto Rican social club from husband and wife Christy Rivera and Ben Oakes is much more than just a place to soak up the flavors, smells and energy of the island.
It’s easy to get roped in by the scent of dishes like tostones, pollo a la casa or the house wings with sea salt, black pepper, cilantro and sofrito crema, which waft daily from the patio to well past the train tracks. The duo, who live in the adjoining apartment complex, say that their neighbors often come scratching at their door after picking up a trace of the aroma as high as the fourth floor.
These are the obvious attractions. So are the four pop-art Bad Bunny faces that sit, altar-like, above the lounge. It’s a place the couple designed explicitly for Colorado’s Boricuas to congregate and cut loose. “It came from the need for the space and the traction of reggaeton getting more popular,” said Rivera, adding that she had been upset by a trend of inauthenticity and culture vulturing across the city’s dance spaces.
After four months of being open, Rivera says her customer base is roughly three-quarters local Puerto Ricans. The rest has been steadily filled out by an industry community that knows a good, well-run bar when they see one. There are also plenty of folks who are simply curious about Puerto Rican food and culture. “Everyone is always welcome no matter what, as long as you’re respectful,” she said.
No matter what brings people through the doors, lots of people stay for the politics. An all-black Puerto Rican flag is displayed proudly, showing a clear stance on independence. “My goal is to one day return to the island and continue building there,” said Rivera. Aguanile has hosted rallies for Colorado State Senator Julie Gonzales, as well as an Escuelita. Rivera says the place will continue to act as a venue where ideas can and should be discussed openly, adding that the concept is partially dedicated to her grandfather, Juan Mercado, who fought for the rights of immigrants, unions and workers after moving to New York from Puerto Rico in the 1960s.
The food menu is a blend of the kind of cooking Rivera grew up eating, alongside some of the more popular bites that have, in recent years, become all the rage in San Juan. “We wanted to focus on the street food and the food my grandparents did,” said Rivera.
The tripleta sliders take the classic behemoth sandwich and divide it into four mini versions better suited for any meal that’s not shared with your closest confidants. It still comes with plenty of sofrito steak, cured ham and roasted pork. There’s still no shortage of house-made mayo ketchup integrated nicely into lettuce and pickled radish. This is a good place to start, the original end-of-night gutbomb transformed into acceptable date fare. From there, go with the pernil. A healthy portion of six-hour slow-roasted pork is shredded on top of either white rice and beans or arroz con gandules. Go with the second for one of the most filling plates for under $20 in town.
Aguanile is also a New York place. Lately, the pair have been playing Knicks games. There’s an energy of no-nonsense kindness that underpins the whole operation, a firm reminder of just how inseparable Puerto Rican culture has become from the fabric of NYC. On Friday and Saturday evenings, the tables and chairs are moved to make way for a dance floor. “Everything about this place is about music and art. It’s geared to all the senses,” said Rivera.
Much like the island that inspired it, Aguanile is worth traveling to experience. “People who are coming here, they’re coming intentionally, purposefully,” said Rivera. While the view from the patio plainly lacks any sign of an ocean, the tides of skateboarders, building residents and people running to catch their train drift by with a similar, soothing certainty.
Aguanile is located at 415 South Cherokee Street #125. It is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5 – 11 p.m., Friday from 5 p.m. – 1 a.m., Saturday from 1 p.m. – 2 a.m., and Sunday from 1 – 8 pm.
Photos by Evan Dale.
